Scottish Bistecca alla Fiorentina
Travelling back from a week away in Scotland we called at a fantastic farm shop. Kilnford Farm Shop sits on the outskirts of Dumfries, just off the A75. There was so much we could have chosen, but the 28 day matured T-bone joint seemed to have our name written all over it! In the UK, the T-Bone is also know as a Porterhouse steak but in Italy we would have been thinking Bistecca alla Fiorentina.
Bistecca alla Fiorentina comes from the loin, below the ribcage. If the cut contains both the sirloin and the fillet then it has been taken from just below the ribs. As you move closer to the rump the cut just contains the Sirloin. Outside Tuscany a Bistecca alla Fiorentina normally contains the fillet. In Tuscany however, and particularly in Florence you may be offered bistecca nel filetto (with the fillet) or bistecca nella costola (without the fillet) (ref 1).
We asked for a piece around 3cm thick which delivered around 1Kg of the finest Galloway Beef! And our piece was most certainly bistecca nel filetto!
Classically, Bistecca alla Fiorentina comes from the enormous Chianina cattle that have been farmed in the Chiana Valley in Tuscany for more than 2000 years. Our beef was reared in Scotland, in Galloway by the owner of the farm shop. These Belted Galloway cattle are much smaller and really suited to the area in which they are reared. They are allowed to grow slowly on rough pasture and only receive a limited amount of concentrated cereal feed as they reach maturity to encourage marbling in the meat (2). It is a real privilege to be able to enjoy meat produced in such a low input and environmentally sustainable system here in the UK.
Traditionally, a Bistecca alla Fiorentina is cooked very close to the wood embers from room temperature. There should be little or no seasoning and it is said that it should only be turned once after 3-5 minutes. It is then finished standing upright on the bone for between 5-7 minutes.
We have previously cooked our version of Bistecca alla Fiorentina using a reverse sear technique. This time too we were not completely following the Tuscan tradition to the letter either. The purpose of cooking closer to the embers is to develop an aromatic crust with the Maillard reaction. We were going to do the same but using our stainless steel plancha. This encourages an even colour over the whole steak rather than just on the stripped grill marks, as described here. (My personal view is that neat grill marks represents chef vanity rather than cooking excellence!!!! But please feel free to differ!)).
The BGE was set for direct cooking with the Plancha at around 230C dome temperature. The steak had been warmed to room temperature, dried (to enhance the Maillard reaction) and very lightly salted just before putting onto the heat. As we were on a plancha rather than using open heat, the sub-dermal fat layer on the edge of the steak was first coloured by direct contact with the hot plancha as in the first picture. This quickly releases some fat which may ignite. Be carful not to burn the fat layer.

The flat sides of the steak were then exposed to the heat of the plancha. Although I tried to resist the temptation to turn the meat more than once, this is much less important when you are not trying to realign grill marks! We turned this every couple of minutes.
As soon as a good colour has been developed on both sides of the steak the meat was stood vertically on the T-bone itself. This is said to make sure that any traces of blood (actually myoglobin) have been eliminated from the bone. In reality though the bone also acts as a thermal shield whilst the rest of the meat roasts for 5-7 mins. It is worth taking a measure of the core temperature to make sure this is not done for too long.
Traditionally the core of a Bistecca alla Fiorentina is served between blue and rare – and certainly only warm rather than cooked! Our preference though is to serve it a little warmer and so just rare.
Our core temperature after 5 minutes standing was still only in the high 20s Centigrade. Whilst the temperature would rise by a few degrees during resting we decided to give it a conventional oven finish. Our oven of choice here would clearly be the BGE. Sitting the steak on a bed of Rosemary in a cold handleless pan and putting this back on the BGE would safely allow 5 mins or so more roasting without over cooking. This was a technique we first came across on a Theo Randall cooking course.
After around 5 mins the core temperature had risen to around 45C and was ready to rest. It was taken out of the BGE and wrapped in foil and covered with a tea towel to rest and keep warm.
Whilst resting some parboiled potatoes were roasted off in the BGE using the residual heat.
Once fully rested, the meat was a joy to carve. Carved at right angles to the bone separating the sirloin and the fillet. This is often just served by itself on a sharing cutting board with some lemon, the fillet and the sirloin surrounding T-bone.
We chose to serve it plated. Separating the sirloin and the fillet we served with the roasted potatoes and a mix of French beans and semidried tomatoes in oil.
This was a truly fabulous dish using carefully reared and butchered meat from the UK, every bit as good as any we have had in Tuscany. This beautiful dish was cooked using the principals if not the absolutely identical techniques used for a classical Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Whether you see this as an homage to the classical Bistecca alla Fiorentina, or as a great way to cook some wonderful Scottish steak really doesn’t matter! It was a great dish ………………
………………which ever way you see it do give it a go!!
References
1, https://www.theflorentine.net/2016/06/21/exactly-bistecca-alla-fiorentina/
2, https://www.kilnford.co.uk/visit/butchers
Scottish Bistecca alla Fiorentina
A fine Scottish T bone from a Belted Galloway Heffer given the Bistecca alla Fiorentina treatment
Ingredients
- A T-bone steak approx 3cm thick (1Kg) Ideally matured for at least 21 days
- Salt
- Rosemary
- Finishing salt
Directions
- Step 1 Remove the steak from the fridge ideally at least 2 hours before cooking to bring to room temperature. Set up the BGE for plancha cooking either with a dedicated plancha or a cast iron frying pan that will allow the lid to close – allow to stabilise with a dome temp around 230C
- Step 2 Dry the steak and very lightly salt it. Expose the fatty edge of the steak to the plancha but be carful not to burn the fat layer.
- Step 3 Turn the steak onto one side and press the steak down to make good contact. Either turn the meat every minute or so until the surface has good colour – or if feeling brave just turn once after 3-5 mins and repeat on the other side. As soon as a good colour has been developed on both sides of the steak stand the steak vertically on the T-bone itself. Roast in this position for 5-7 mins. If going for a traditional ‘blue’ finish the steak may well be at that stage at this point (check with a thermoprobe)
- Step 4 If wanting to serve the core rare or medium rare it could be left in this vertical position for longer. Alternatively, as we did here sit the steak on a bed of Rosemary in a cold handleless pan and put this back on the BGE until the core temperature has risen to around 45C
- Step 5 Remove the steak and wrap in foil then cover with a tea towel to rest and keep warm. Once rested (at least 10 mins) carve at right angles to the bone separating the sirloin and the fillet. Serve on a cutting board with some lemon, the fillet and the sirloin surrounding T-bone or plate with vegetables of your choice






The meat used for this first ‘run out’ of this recipe was wagyu shoulder. Beef shoulder is often referred to as Chuck and I would suspect that any chuck would work well in this recipe! Using substantial chunks of meat when making a ragù has the enormous advantage that they are easy to manage at this stage when trying to get colour onto the meat. It is that Maillard reaction that brings so much extra flavour to dishes.
The chunks of beef were dried and then seasoned generously with salt. The beef was then fried at a high heat in a pan with a little olive oil, making sure that all sides of the meat were browned. This could be done on the BGE but on this occasion these first stages were done on a domestic hob in the kitchen. Whilst the meat was browning a large onion was halved and diced reasonably finely. The meat was then removed from the pan and set to one side.
As the onions started to sauté 2 sticks of celery were finely chopped and added to the pan with a little more olive oil and fried on a medium heat for around 4 minutes.
As the sofrito was cooking the San Marzano tomatoes were chunked and then very finely blended with a stick blender. Normally a passata is sieved to remove the seeds and skin. When it is blitzed in this way though it is not really necessary and there is far less waste. The blitzed tomato was going to be used with some conventional passata to add some sweet freshness.
This was left to simmer for a few minutes to drive off the alcohol before adding the tomato pulp and the passata. The pan was then brought to a gentle simmer. If we were going to finish the cooking in a conventional oven this would be the time to add a close fitting lid before putting it in the oven at around 180C for around 90 minutes. We were, however, going to cook the ragù on the BGE set up for indirect cooking at between 150-160C.
Once the meat is meltingly tender the casserole can be removed from the Big Green Egg for the next stage in the process. As we started off with large chunks of meat we then needed to break up the meat into the sauce. The easiest way to do this is with a whisk. The whisk is simply used to bash the meat until it breaks down to the required consistency as in the picture. The ragù can be used straight away or left to mature overnight. If anything it is a little better on the second day!
We were serving the ragù with home made egg pasta. Hopefully we will publish this later. We were going to use a very traditional Tuscan Pappardelle pasta which is usually around 2cm wide and around 25cm long.
All that is left to do is pop open a good bottle of Italian red, and serve the pasta on the plate or bowl of your choice. ideally the serving dish for this sort of pasta should have a flat base. This traditional way of serving the dish has the practical advantage that the pasta can be spread out.


The steaks were removed and wrapped in a double layer of foil and covered with a towel to keep warm whilst they rest for around 10 minutes. We use this time to cook or finish off whatever vegetables we are intending to serve with the steak.














Having tried our hand with the local beef 



The cut of meat was correct, loin from near the leg of the Scottona – from the butchers counter of the local supermarket in the village we were staying. I would normally not buy steak from a supermarket in the UK but I have to say that here in Tuscany the meat is excellent. This piece by Florentine standards was 650gms (1lb 4oz) but still generous for two! Being thinner than a traditional Florentina, just 3/4 inch (traditional Bistecca alla Fiorentina can be up to 3 inches thick!) a different cooking method was used; the Reverse Sear.







Recent Comments